In the world of high jewellery, there are creators who follow trends and others who build their own universe. Ilona Orel belongs firmly to the second category. Her work moves between contemporary art, symbolism, and fine craftsmanship, resulting in pieces that feel intimate, thoughtful, and timeless.
Ahead of her upcoming presentation at The Unique Gallery Dubai on the 14th, we spoke with Ilona Orel about the journey behind her brand, the symbols that define her collections, and the philosophy that guides her approach to jewellery.
Portrait of the designer
What was the journey that brought you to designing jewelry and founding Ilona Orel?
My journey into jewellery did not start with the idea of building a brand. It started with a very clear image.
The first design came to me in a dream: a movable cross that would later become Perpetuum Mobile. When I woke up, I quickly tried to recreate it using thread and matches, simply because I was afraid of forgetting it. That same day, I contacted an atelier and asked them to create the first prototype.
At that time, my life revolved around contemporary art. I was running an art gallery in Paris, with a branch in London, and I was constantly surrounded by artists, collectors, and curators. Jewellery was present, but in a very private way. After stepping away from the art world following the birth of my child, I returned to that original piece and began creating jewellery just for myself, without any intention of launching a brand. Slowly, stylists noticed the pieces, then clients followed, and in a very organic way, Ilona Orel was born.
Many of your designs reference symbols like the Third Eye, cosmic balance, or “as above, so below.” How do you choose which symbols to explore, and what drew you to them personally?
Symbolism has always felt natural to me. I am drawn to signs that communicate quietly but deeply, symbols that exist across cultures and time and are understood intuitively, not intellectually. I choose motifs that resonate on a subconscious level and carry a universal meaning.
The Third Eye, for instance, speaks of protection and inner vision. The principle “as above, so below” reflects the balance between the inner and outer worlds, between what we feel and what we show. These ideas reflect what I want jewellery to be: not something purely decorative, but something that empowers and accompanies the person who wears it.
Nue sous l’Ecume ring and pendant
An extraordinary piece of haute joaillerie, the Nue sous l’Ecume set captures the poetic elegance of the sea in a masterful composition of gold, diamonds, and hand-carved rock crystal. Shaped like a delicate seashell, the ring opens to reveal a freely moving pearl nestled inside.
Your pieces often feature bespoke engravings and customizable elements. Can you walk us through how you collaborate with clients to create jewelry that feels personal?
I approach bespoke jewellery in the same way an art advisor approaches a collector. I start by listening. Every client brings a story, and together we identify a symbol that resonates with their personal experience.
From there, we refine the piece through details such as the colour of gold, the choice of gemstones, proportions, or discreet engravings. Some elements are hidden and known only to the wearer. These intimate details turn the jewel into something deeply personal, almost secret. It becomes a piece that belongs to one life and one story.
Sustainability is at the heart of Ilona Orel. Are there particular materials or practices you’re especially proud of?
For me, sustainability is closely linked to responsibility and longevity. I do not believe in jewellery made for a single season. My pieces are designed to last and to be passed on.
We work in Paris with highly skilled ateliers, using certified materials, including certified gold. Production is deliberately limited. I value craftsmanship, meaning, and rarity far more than volume.
First picture: Infinite Passion earring; Second picture: Nue sous l’Ecume in gold; Third picture: The Seed of Life collier and earrings.
Is there a symbol or collection that you feel best represents Ilona Orel today, and why?
Today, Ilona Orel is best represented by the idea of meaning in motion. My jewellery is not meant to be loud. It is quiet, sculptural, and emotionally charged.
Many clients are drawn to emblematic motifs such as the Third Eye or hermetic symbols because they feel both universal and deeply personal. At the same time, the brand continues to evolve toward jewellery that sits between art and craftsmanship, wearable sculptures designed to endure.
Who do you imagine wearing your jewelry, and what kind of connection do you hope they feel with it?
I design for people who seek individuality and inner resonance. People who choose jewellery not to follow trends, but to express who they are.
I want my pieces to feel like a personal ritual. Something you wear not because it matches an outfit, but because it reflects your inner state. Jewellery that protects, grounds, and quietly stays with you through life.
Can you tell us about the new collection debuting in Dubai and the inspiration behind its core theme?
In Dubai, I will present Nue sous l’Ecume, a ring and a pendant conceived as true wearable sculptures within the world of high jewellery. The forms are inspired by shells carved from rock crystal. Inside each shell, a pearl moves freely. It is not fixed, but gently rolls within the crystal, held by an invisible construction that allows movement while ensuring durability.
This balance between freedom and protection is at the core of the collection. The pearl, a symbol of origin and purity, remains alive and in motion. Nue sous l’Ecume speaks about what exists beneath the surface, vulnerability paired with strength, concealment with quiet power. Each ring and pendant is a unique piece, defined by a specific combination of gold colour, pearl tone, and diamonds. No two are the same, and once all possible combinations are completed, the series will come to an end.
The ring from Nue sous l’Ecume was selected for the exhibition Art de vivre à la française in New York in October 2025, celebrating French craftsmanship. Presenting this collection in Dubai feels like a natural continuation, placing contemporary French high jewellery within an international cultural dialogue.
Seed of life choker detail
Presenting Ilona Orel in Dubai places your work in a global, culturally rich context. What do you want visitors to take away from discovering your brand?
I would like people to understand that my jewellery is made to stay. These are not pieces created for a specific moment or trend, but objects meant to be lived with, kept, and eventually passed on.
I am not interested in jewellery that demands attention. What matters to me is presence. I want my pieces to be felt rather than noticed, to carry meaning and a certain quiet strength, and to accompany the person who wears them over time.
The upcoming presentation of Ilona Orel at The Unique Gallery Dubai on Jenuary 14 offers a rare opportunity to discover her jewellery in an intimate and thoughtful setting: for further information or to register for the event kindly RSVP at welcome@theuniquedubai.com or via WhatsApp at +971 54 563 0713.
To continue discovering Ilona Orel’s universe beyond the event, The Unique Gallery Dubai presents a curated selection of her creations alongside works by international designers throughout the year.
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