As December unfolds, The Unique Club prepares to welcome its third and final showcase of the season. After the sculptural poetics of Costis and the sunlit Mediterranean dream of Miseno, the spotlight now turns to Mahesh Notandass, a name that has shaped Indian high jewelry for nearly fifty years. Ahead of the event, which will take place on December 14, we spoke with Vandana Jagwani, the creative mind shaping the future of the brand, to explore its legacy and its evolving aesthetics, and the philosophy behind its most iconic designs.
How would you describe the spirit that defines The House of Mahesh Notandass today?
I’d call it a kind of “new world order.” We have a lot of history, but not in a way that holds us back. It’s about experience and craftsmanship as a foundation, and then pushing everything forward with innovation. There’s definitely a bit of rebellion in our approach. We’re always trying to evolve and improve, but without experimenting just for the sake of it. The goal is to balance quality and change, not compromise one for the other.
Your family’s history in jewelry dates back generations. Which moments shaped the identity of the maison the most?
For me, identity isn’t something that’s shaped once, but rather something that grows. One of our strongest values has always been giving clients the newest, never limiting their choices. And as we grew and could do more, we kept pushing.
There were big milestones, like opening Bandra in 1983, a major show in 2006, and my joining in 2020, but honestly, every creative director adds something. Each moment when someone steps into their own vision becomes a breakthrough, and that keeps shaping who we are.
Vandana Jagwani, Creative Director of Mahesh Notandass.
What draws you to certain stones or materials when beginning a new creation?
There are two ways it usually starts. Sometimes I begin with the stone: I see something beautiful and I just have to work with it. Other times it starts with a shape or form, and then I choose the stones that fit. Either way, it’s always tied to what’s inspiring me at that moment. Inspiration can come from anything, even a quote. It’s either shaping the idea and then choosing the stones, or choosing the stones and building the idea around them.
Your pieces balance tradition and innovation. How do you approach that dialogue in your design process?
It really comes down to using all the experience and craftsmanship we have, and then upgrading how we make things. We try new materials and ideas, including lab-grown, but we never compromise on finishing, quality, or design. Innovation for me is about new forms, new gemstones, pushing boundaries, and growing beyond what’s familiar. At the same time, we stay rooted in the skills that built the house.
You brought a new creative energy to the house. How has her vision influenced the brand’s evolution?
I’m definitely more of a risk-taker. If I believe in a piece, even if it’s commercially risky, I’ll still make it. I value the product above everything. Since I see so much jewelry all the time, I always want to create the absolute best.
My vision is also global. I’ve had a lot of international exposure, so I never saw the brand as limited to India. Expansion outside the country feels very natural to me. I think that’s the biggest influence I’ve brought.
Leaf earrings and Emerald bracelet by Mahesh Notandass
Collectors see your jewels as modern heirlooms. What makes a piece truly timeless in your eyes?
For me, a piece is timeless if you can wear it 10 or 15 years later and it doesn’t feel old. That’s one of my biggest priorities when I design. Even if a high-end piece doesn’t sell for five years, I don’t mind, because if it can live in someone’s locker for 25 years and still look current, that’s timeless.
As for heirlooms, I think of the Victorian or Art Deco eras, which were periods of huge artistic change. Maybe what we’re creating now will be considered heirlooms in 200 years. My goal is to make pieces that feel timeless today and can become heirlooms for the future.
Why was Dubai the right move for you at this moment, and what role does The Unique Gallery play in the opportunities you hope to explore?
Dubai has been on our radar for a long time. We’ve had a large client base there for generations. It also makes sense practically because it’s close, easy to monitor, and very international.
Working with The Unique Gallery felt very natural. We’ve collaborated with them before in Monaco, so there’s already trust and understanding. They curate international jewelers beautifully, and being part of that circle aligns perfectly with our expansion goals. It’s a partnership where both sides grow by exploring new markets, reaching new audiences, and presenting our work in a space that truly understands luxury and craftsmanship.
For me, it was simply the right opportunity at the right time. After years of trying, everything finally aligned, and we’re thrilled about what this next chapter in Dubai can bring.
Gold and diamonds earrings from the new Mahesh Notandass collection.
Vandana Jagwani’s insights highlight how Mahesh Notandass brings together Indian heritage, modern design, and state-of-the-art craftsmanship.
To attend the exclusive showcase on December 14 and discover these exceptional pieces up close, please RSVP via email at welcome@theuniquedubai.com or WhatsApp at +971 54 563 0713 for further details and registration.
Cocktail Rings by Mahesh Notandass
For those wishing to explore Mahesh Notandass beyond the event, The Unique Gallery Dubai offers an in-person experience of the brand’s unique creations, presented alongside a curated selection of 20 international high-jewelry houses. A visit to the gallery has become an essential stop for collectors, connoisseurs, and jewelry enthusiasts seeking rare artistry and exceptional design.
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